Misiones, much more than the Iguazu falls

No words can convey what witnessing these falls represents. Iguazu falls owe their existence to a fault that underlies the Iguazu river (Guarani word for big water) producing a fantastic 70 mts (210 ft) water fall. Boat rides can take the intrepid visitor at very close range of the Devil's throat fall, probably the culmination point of the whole journey. The falls were seen for the first time by conquistadores in the year 1541, specifically, it was Alvear Nunez Cabeza de vaca, who had that priviledge. The Iguazu falls are higher, longer and more spectacular than the Niagara falls in the United States.

They are also wider than the Victoria falls in Zambesi (Africa). The northern arm of Iguazu river finishes in a 'canyon' known as the devil's throat, where a continuous mist of water produces an almost constant rainbow. In 1983, the last part of the trail was destroyed by the floods. In recent years, local authorities repaired it so that visitors could reach the end. After a short train ride, people can just walk almost over it.

In essence, the falls create half a circle of about 2700 mts. comprised of 275 streams. Besides the 'garganta del diablo' other well known streams are Bozetti, Dos Hermanas, San Martin and Adam and Eve. They are all part of the Iguazu national park, a natural habitat of about 55,000 hectares. The average temperature during winter is 15C and during summer around 26C.

At the heart of what used to be the Guarani indian territory, religious orders from Spain (Jesuits) developed the village of San Ignacio with the purpose of converting natives into Christianism. Visitors will see how these religious missions structured social life and how they must have lived. San Ignacio was founded in 1610, named 'mini' which in native's language (guarani) meant smaller as opposed to San Ignacio Guazu (bigger), developed into one of the most critical and important missions in the territory colonized by the Spanish crown. The missions created another 30 setllements besides San Igancio.

With over 3300 natives living in the mission at the time, everything points to the fact that an enormous effort must have taken place to 'civilize' them. In 1696, the mission moved closer to the Yabebiry river to avoid attacks from 'bandeirantes' from Brazil. At dawn, there is usually a beautiful, serene ceremony of music and lights that recreates what must have been the original atmosphere.

The central part of Misiones is occupied by the 'sierras', a stretch of about 200km that is characterized by the plantation of Yerba Mate as well as tea. The mate is a local plant that thrived in the 'guarani' region (Corrientes, Misiones, Paraguay and south of Brazil). The leaves of the plant are the base for the worldwide known infusion called mate. At present most plantations carry between 3000 and 4500 plants per hectar.