Post Number: 1
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 10:25 am: |
Hi everyone. My wife and I are planning on moving to Buenos Aires for one to two months early next year. We are both freelance writers in the U.S. and, with the help of Vonage, will be able to continue to do our work while we are there. The purpose of our trip is part vacation and part fact-finding mission. There is the possibility that when our U.S. contracts with our publishing company are renewed, we might be looking at a long-term move.
Where would you recommend finding an apartment in the city, where we would be getting a true taste of the real Buenos Aires culture? I would prefer a neighborhood not flooded with tourist and trendy shops, but rather some place with cafes, casual bars/pubs, restaurants, a good art/music scene, etc. We're both avid cooks, so somewhere near fresh produce markets would be great. I should also note that we are both in our late 20s.
Thanks for your help.
Post Number: 6
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 11:15 am: |
There is no such thing as a "tourist" area in Buenos Aires unless you plan to hang out in Puerto Madero. It is sort of difficult to find a place that has everything you want but no "trendy" shops. I live in Palermo Viejo which is great. But there are "trendy" shops mixed in with everything else. Palermo Viejo has many up and coming young designers.
All neighborhoods have fresh produce shops, butchers, cheese, pasta, etc. Big chain stores are not really the norm here. We have some larger supermarkets, but the mom and pops prevail. My recommendation is that you come for maybe a week and stay in a hotel and then figure out where you might want to live.
This is an incredible city with a lot to offer. The neighborhoods are really distinct. There is something for everyone here. I have a bed and breakfast. I have many people who come here for a long term stay, but stay with me until they find somewhere else to rent.
Post Number: 90
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 12:30 pm: |
Where Florida and Lavalle streets intersect and for several blocks either way you will find a lot of tourists.
Recoletta has an upscale tourist section near the cemetary where Evita's tomb is located.
Puerto Madero as Deby said is another.
But all these places and others are not just for tourists. The locals go there also. I like all three especialy Pureto Madero and Recoletta. From what I've seen of Puerto Madero the apartments are new and very upscale.
I think it is good advice to go there and stay in a temporary place for a while until you find what you like.
Fresh fruit/vegetable shops and small grocery stores everywhere.
Deby, what part of Bs As is your bed and breakfast.
Post Number: 2
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 1:27 pm: |
Thanks for your help.
Are there areas that have more green space - parks, etc. - than others? Also, I've heard that San Telmo is a hip area to live. Is it relatively safe to walk around there at night?
Post Number: 92
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 3:58 pm: |
I think I am going to leave this one to Deby and others.
There seems to be a lot of parks around the city.
Which section has more I do not know.
Post Number: 37
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 5:23 pm: |
The greenest parts of the city are along Libertador in Recoleta, Palermo - near Palermo chico, botanico and parts of nuevo, as well as the parts of Las Canitas along Libertador. We traveled here several times before we ever moved and the two apartments we enjoyed the most were in Las Canitas (trendy but not super touristy) near the polo fields and it was a ten minute walk to the parks along Figuora Alcorta, and also we stayed in Palermo Botanico and would go running in the parks on Libertador.
It's true that you can find good produce pretty much everywhere. There are great restaurants throughout the city. Regarding large supermarkets - in Las Canitas there's a huge Jumbo which is essentially a French style hypermarket so you have clothes, household goods, good selection of food, some organics etc., in Palermo chico there is the French hypermarket Carrefour which is similar to Jumbo but a bit smaller. Then you have tons of smaller supermarkets scattered throughout the city.
Regarding your stay here, my personal suggestion would be to take a short term rental in a centrally located place with good accessibility to public transport so that you can easily explore the city. You might even try a month in one area in one apartment and then a month in another area just to see what you like. You will really want to explore the city as much as possible to see what area you feel most comfortable with - in our first trip we walked everywhere the entire two weeks. The next couple of trips weren't much different. Between that and also renting a car, we saw more of the city than many people who live here all their lives. Needless to say for personal reasons (two big non-city dogs for one) we chose to live in the suburbs.
Post Number: 7
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 6:48 pm: |
Why would you go to Jumbo when you have zillions of fresh fruits on the streets that is cheaper and fresher than Jumbo? My opinion. I think Jumbo is great if you miss American style supermarkets like Safeway or even American food. Yes, they have lots of stuff, but I much prefer to shop locally. I feel the same way about Carrefour which is lesser in quality than Jumbo. About the only time I go to Jumbo is when I need to go to Easy.
I live in Palermo Viejo or Soho. To me this is where all the great parks are. You have the lakes, the Botanical gardens, the Japanese gardens, among many others. Liberatador in Recoleta? What Parks? Very few compared to Palermo. There are plazas, but these are not the same as parks. At least in my opinion.
Before I bought my place in Palermo I had lived in Belgrano (also has several parks but too far away for my tastes), El Central, Cabellito, Flores, and Recoleta. I had also stayed in different parts of Palermo. I was happy to find a place here as this is my favorite barrio.
San Telmo is the place that the tourists love, God knows why. Other than the plaza it is not the greatest place to live. Not the safest either. The architecture can be nice. But not nice enough to get me to live there.
Post Number: 60
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 7:09 pm: |
One important thingy Deby pointed out.. Dont ever buy so called "Fresh fruit produce" in those big places like Carrefour or Jumbo. They sell "Frigorifero" crap. Mainly the fruit stuff. This means they keep the fruits in fridges till the time to sell.. Very bad quality!
Post Number: 3
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 8:19 pm: |
Thanks everyone. This is very helpful info.
Post Number: 38
|Posted on Tuesday, July 25, 2006 - 8:39 pm: |
Riyad, I wasn't suggesting Jumbo/Carrefour were the only options. I buy my produce fruits there as well as at the markets. I also buy organic produce from a farm delivery service Taller Organico. However, that said, I bought fresh strawberries from my favorite guy and they were terrible. I bought a mango yesterday from Jumbo that was perfectly ripe and as good as I had in Miami. I guess it can be hit or miss, but when I'm looking for certain things I definately will hit Jumbo. However, I must say that my fruit guy has the absolute best farm eggs and I buy a couple of dozen at a time because I can't tolerate any store eggs yuk!
Joshua, I can understand your desire for green spaces. I worked for various environmental organizations in the past and green spaces are super important for me.
So, depending upon what you like to do these are the greenest parts of the city in general with some being more than others but the definately much less tarmac :-)
In Recoleta starting at Rodiguez Pena you can do everything from jogging, walking, people watching, relaxing in the sun. The parks there along Libertador that start in Recoleta are Parque Thays; Plaza Capital General Justo de Urquiza; Plaza Republic del Uruguay; Plaza Republic de Chile. Some are super green, others are more like a French style parks (the French architect Carlos Thays designed many beautiful parks here in Buenos Aires, Mendoza, as well as other places).
In Palermo you can do the same and more including horseback riding at places like Club Aleman and the Equitation School. The main parks are along Libertador and sandwiched between Avenida Figueroa Alcorta. and area just below Palermo Botanico and Palermo Nuevo. You've got the Plaza Holanda; Plaza Jardines de Invierno; Plaza General Paez; Plaza Int. Seeber. There's a large lake there as well where you will see a lot of people out jogging and exercising on the weekends.
If you want to talk more feel free to send me a private message.